LEG BANDAGING
You may need to bandage your horse’s leg for many reasons, but for whatever the reason you must ensure that the bandage does not cause tightness or uneven pressure anywhere. I recommend bandaging any poor soul that will let you, so that they can give you feedback, or on your own leg, until you are confident you can do it quickly without causing pressure, but it is tight enough to do the job.
A padding like fibergee or Gamgee must be used underneath to spread the pressure.
When rolling the bandage back up, tightness is the key. I put the bandage over my shoulder to keep it clean. You must also roll with the tapes or Velcro on the inside of the roll so it is the right way once on the horse’s leg. There is not much more frustrating than bandaging your horse perfectly, then finding out the bandage is the wrong way round. When you have rolled the bandage, tuck in the end so it does not unravel whilst being stored.
THE EXERCISE BANDAGE
These have some elasticity in them and are usually about 3 inches wide.
These are to give extra support to the tendons, ligaments and cannon bone while exercising or if the opposite leg is lame.
They are not so popular now as they have been replaced by the more convenient boots.
There is some debate as to whether the bandages actually cause the tendons and ligaments to be more susceptible to injury. This is because of the heat held under them. Also there is some question that the bandages could cause the tendons and ligaments to rely on the bandages so, in effect, making them weaker. Because of this it is advisable to use them for as short a period as possible.
How to put an exercise bandage on
Put fidergee or some sort of padding on the leg covering from the knee to the top of the fetlock joint.
Make sure the edges do not finish on the tendons or the front of the cannon bone, causing pressure points.
Start your bandage half way down the cannon bone, rolling towards the hindquarters.
Tuck the end of the bandage over your second loop around to stop it unravelling or becoming loose.
Bandage down the leg then back up making sure it is tight enough not to slip, but loose enough to not cause undue pressure.
Finish the bandage in the middle of the cannon bone making sure, as you secure it with the ties or Velcro, you do not overtighten them.
Tuck the top of the bandage over the ties to stop them from becoming loose. You can also put electrical tape over them to make them more secure.
Check you can easily slide your finger in the bandage, and that it does not interfere with the leg movement.
THE STABLE OR TRAVEL BANDAGE
These have little or no stretch, are wider than exercise bandages and are made of warm material.
They are used to protect and keep the legs warm.
The bandage runs from just below the knee or hock to just above the coronet band.
How to put a stable bandage on
Put fibergee or some sort of padding on the leg covering from half way up the knee to the coronet band, making sure the bulb of the heel is covered.
Make sure the edges do not finish on the tendons or the front of the cannon bone, causing pressure points.
Start your bandage half way down the cannon bone rolling towards the hindquarters.
Tuck the end of the bandage over your second loop around to stop it unravelling or becoming loose.
Bandage down the leg then back up, making a v-shape at the front of the leg.
Make sure it is tight enough not to slip, but loose enough to not cause undue pressure.
Finish the bandage in the middle of the cannon bone making sure, as you secure it with the ties or Velcro, you do not overtighten them.
Tuck the top of the bandage over the ties to stop them from becoming loose. You can also put electrical tape over them to make them more secure.
Check you can easily slide your finger in the bandage, and that it does not interfere with the leg movement.
How to BANDAGE A WOUND
If there is a small wound it is best to let the air get to it to aid healing, but if the wound is deeper, or you are worried dirt may enter the wound and cause problems, a bandage or dressing may be needed.
FOR A WOUND ON AN EASY TO BANDAGE AREA
Clean and treat the wound.
Put on a dressing
Use Gamgee or fibergee.
Use an exercise bandage as it has some elasticity. I am not a fan of vet wrap, especially in inexperienced hands, as you have to stretch it to unwrap it so it often goes on and retracts in time. I have seen too many wounds and sores caused by using this.
Bandage the opposite leg as well. This is because the sound leg will be taking much more weight than normal so may become strained.
The knee bandage
Treat the wound as already covered, or put on a poultice for a strain or swelling
(as long as there are no open wounds so the joint can be compromised).
Put fibergee or some sort of padding on the knee making sure the edges do not finish on the front or back of the knee causing pressure points.
Start your bandage above the knee.
Tuck the end of the bandage over your second loop around to stop it unravelling or becoming loose.
Wrap three times around the leg then cross down the front of the knee being careful not to cover the bony bits that stick out, risking pressure sores.
Wrap three times around the leg then cross back over the front of the knee, to finish by wrapping around the top of the knee again.
Tuck the top of the bandage over the ties to stop them from becoming loose. You can also put electrical tape over them to make them more secure.
Check the bandage is not too tight or on the bony bits, and that you can easily slide in a finger. The back of the knee should have no bandage to allow for movement.
Check the bandage regularly, as if it slips it may cause pressure points again.
Change the bandage at least every 8 hours, massaging and leaving the leg uncovered for at least 15 minutes in between.
THE Hock bandage
Treat the wound as already covered, or put on a poultice for a strain or swelling,
(as long as there are no open wounds so the joint can be compromised).
Put fibergee or some sort of padding on the hock making sure the edges do not finish on the front or back of the hock, causing pressure points.
Start your bandage above the hock.
Tuck the end of the bandage over your second loop around to stop it unravelling or becoming loose.
Wrap three times around the leg then cross down the side of the hock, being careful not to cover the bony bits that stick out, risking pressure sores.
Wrap three times around the leg then cross back over the side of the hock, to finish by wrapping around the top of the hock again.
Tuck the top of the bandage over the ties to stop them from becoming loose. You can also put electrical tape over them to make them more secure.
Check the bandage is not too tight or on the bony bits, and that you can easily slide in a finger. The front and back of the hock should have no bandage on them to allow for flexion.
Check the bandage regularly, as if it slips it may cause pressure points again.
Change the bandage at least every 8 hours, massaging and leaving the leg uncovered for at least 15 minutes in between.
Final Thoughts
Remember, your horse can not tell you if your bandage is too tight, has something sharp under it or has pressure points.
You must check this is not the case, so your lovely horse does not end up with more issues than he began with.