HOW TO FITTEN YOUR HORSE
From bringing your horse in from time off in the field, to getting him ready for eventing, it is really important to make sure you get your horse fit gradually and carefully. This is so you do not cause strains, sprains or unnecessary time off.
BRINGING IN FROM TIME OFF IN THE FIELD
A few weeks before you plan to start work on your horse you will need to:
get the blacksmith organized if you have had your horse’s shoes removed, or they will need road studs etc.
Worm your horse
get vaccinations checked.
check tack is well oiled and still fits.
get his back checked.
To begin with, start bringing your horse in just for a feed and groom. If your horse is overweight, just give a small handful of the feed you will be putting him on, so his system has time to adjust.
Only keep him stabled for an hour or so to start with, as he will not be used to just standing in.
Keep it as dust free as possible by soaking the hay if he been out on grass, and using a shavings bed.
REMEMBER SLOWLY IS USUALLY QUICKER IN THE LONG RUN
A SIMPLE FITTENING PROGRAM
Points to remember
This is an example of a simple fittening program and it must be adjusted to take in yours and your horse’s-
1- initial level of fitness.
2- reason for time off, if it was for an injury, the fittening program will be stretched out and advise from your vet must be taken.
3- your horse’s initial condition, so if he is very overweight the program will be longer, if he runs around in the field and is relatively fit, you can shorten it.
Whilst fittening (and when riding in general) keep an eye out for:
1- signs of sprains or strains on the legs- heat, swelling and stiffness.
2- sore feet from starting work on hard ground.
3- girth galls (sores from where the girth rubs).
4- tenderness along the back.
5- sores around the head from the bridle.
6- sores or bruising around the corners of the lips and in the mouth from the bit.
7- overreach, brushing cuts or bruising from working in an unfit way.
8- any signs of stress-excessive sweating, blowing or shortness in breath.
If any of the above is noted, stop the program and call the vet if necessary. Only restart if the issue is healed, but lengthen the program to stop it reoccurring.
When working, it is very important to use the first 10 minutes to up warm the muscles thoroughly by just walking and trotting on a long rein, using big shapes. Gradually collect the horse up and increase the intensity of the work asked.
Just as important is the cooling down phase of your work. The last 10 minutes should be done at a slower pace so the horse can cool off. If possible, the girth should be loosened a hole and, if cold, a rug put over his exposed back to stop him getting a chill.
Week one
If your horse has not been used at all, or is a youngster, it may be necessary to start the rebreaking process again or lunge. As a fitness point of view, lunging should not be introduced until about week 5, but it may be necessary to calm your horse before you get on for the first time.
1- Start with a gentle walk for 20 minutes on a long rein building up to one hour.
2- Start on a firm flat surface building up to a gentle slope.
3- Just work in straight lines.
Week Two
1- Introduce trot starting with 1-2 minutes building up to 5 minutes.
2- Gradually increase the time you are riding up to about an hour and a half by the end of the week.
3- Introduce small hills.
4- Concentrates increased to 10% of food intake, if he needs it.
Week Three
1- Build up the length of trotting to a maximum of 10 minutes by the end of the week.
2- Do small trots up gentle slopes.
3- Start taking up contact.
4- Walk in the school introducing 20 m circles by the end of the week.
Week Four
1-Trotting increasing up gentle hills.
2-Start introducing small trots in the school around the edge.
3-Concentrates increased to 15% of food intake, if he needs it.
The first 4 weeks can be really boring but it is the base for strengthening muscles, tendons and ligaments. If done slowly and correctly it can stop unnecessary problems later on.
Week Five
1- Canter can be introduced just as trot was, so short times to start with building up gradually. Keep in straight lines.
2- School work can increase but still keep to large turns.
3- Trotting poles can be introduced.
4- More contact work can be done.
5- Lunging for about 10 minutes to start with building up to 30 minutes just in walk and trot.
Week SIX
1- Canter can be introduced on small hills and time increased slowly.
2-School work can become more challenging but again slowly increase. An intro test in dressage is the aim to get to.
3- A small jump can be introduced.
4- Lunging time can increase to 40 minutes but only walk and trot still.
5- Concentrates can be fed to 20% of total fed intake, if he needs it.
Week SEVEN
1- The amount of canter can be increase and small hills be introduced.
2- By the end of the week a small gallop or ‘pipe opener’ can be done. Monitor the recovery rate to check his fitness level is correct.
3- Canter can be introduced just around the edge of the school to start, building up to a preliminary dressage test level by the end of the week.
4- A small course of 3 or 4 jumps can be done by the end of the week.
5- Some small xc jumps can also be introduced.
6- Canter can be started on the lunge.
Week Eight
At this point it is just gradually increasing and maintaining his condition.
If you are 3 day eventing it should take another 4 weeks of fittening to get to this point, assuming you have no set backs.
TURNING A HORSE AWAY
This is the opposite to fittening. It is not a good idea to just chuck a competition fit horse out in the field at the end of the season, as you will undoubtedly cause stress.
This process will take about 10 days.
Reduce the workload, grooming and feed gradually over the 10 days whilst increasing the time out and roughage fed.
If the horse is to stay out in the field it might be a good time to remove his shoes so there are not constant nail holes. With some horses this causes more problems so it is best to keep the shoes on.
Final Thoughts
When changing anything with your horse it should be done slowly (unless for medical reasons).
This applies with fittening especially.
Can you imagine coming back from a lovely long holiday and then be expected to run a mini marathon with someone on your back?
Unless this process is done with care and consideration, it is just luck if your horse does not end up hurt and in pain.