BOOTS AND EXERCISE BANDAGES
General points
They are used to protect the legs or heels. On these brushing boots, you can see the marks where the other leg has struck the boot. If the boot had not been there, it would have bruised the leg.
The straps do up on the outside and face towards the hind quarters. There are some exceptions to this, for example, the knee boot.
The straps should be as wide as possible, to spread the pressure evenly over as large an area as you can.
When doing up the straps they must never restrict movement or cause pressure, especially on the front of the cannon bone and the back of the tendons. Always flex the leg and check there are no rubbing or pressure points, for example, on the knee or below the fetlock.
When putting the boots on, always squat, never kneel, so you can move quickly if the horse moves. Also, make sure you are at the side of the horse, so you do not get kneed in the face.
When doing up the straps, always do the middle up first, then the top, finally the bottom. If there are only two straps, do up the top one first. It is done in this order so the straps have the most even pressure possible. When removing, it is the opposite, so bottom first, then the top with the middle last. This will stop them slipping if the horse moves.
The straps must be tight enough so that the boots do not slip, but loose enough so they do not cause pressure points. In general, you should be able to slide a finger in.
Once boots are removed, make sure you rub the legs where the boots were, to massage the area, and to check for any sores or bangs.
Boots can be made from all kinds of material, it is best to get the strongest, most flexible, breathable material that you can. They must be as waterproof as possible if you are planning to go in water as, if they absorb water, this will be held onto the horse’s skin, causing all kinds of issues.
I must address the issue that is becoming a popular belief at present, that boots cause tendon and ligament damage.
I am a strong believer that if you hear something DO NOT ACCEPT THIS AS GOSPEL, I question everything, as my friends and family will vouch for, much to their frustration.
You are intelligent and you are your horse’s guardian as he cannot speak for himself.
This is my thoughts on the issue, and again, just my thoughts, you must make up your own mind.
Definitely, if boots or bandages are not fitted correctly, they will cause issues and are a form of cruelty. But heat does not cause cell breakdown unless excessive. If this were the case, runners would not wear socks or use pressure bandages.
Many athletes, or avid gym users, wear lots of clothes on purpose to lose weight. If they risked tendon and ligament cell damage they definitely would not do it. Also, if this were the case, the horse’s back would be breaking down constantly as this is always covered, and contains many tendons and ligaments that are in constant high pressure.
When a horse does any kind of competition, it is put under extreme strain, accidents easily happen, maybe just getting to the jump too close or finding a dip in the ground.
We have put big metal shoes on our horse’s feet, and it is so easy for him to just bang his hoof on to the other leg, very often bruising it, which we are oblivious to because of the hair covering it.
There have been studies that have shown that there is heat created by these boots that could mean the tendons and ligaments become more stretchy, but in the studies I have looked into, no extra sprains or strains were seen as a result.
I would much rather protect the leg from blows and bruising than some heat.
As I said this is my thoughts but you must investigate with an open mind and common sense and make up your own mind.
DIFFERENT BOOTS AND THEIR USES
BRUSHING BOOTS
These are used to protect the inside of the cannon bone and the fetlock joint from the opposite hoof.
The padding goes on the inside of the leg, with the widest piece on the fetlock joint.
OVER REACH BOOTS
These are to stop the hind leg striking the back of the front heel, hoof or shoe.
You must make sure the heel or around the coronet band is not rubbed.
It must not be too big, so easily trodden on.
TENDON BOOTS
These are generally used on the front legs, to protect the tendons running along the back of the cannon bone and provide support.
Many are made with hard material along the back to stop the hind foot striking the tendons.
You must make sure that there is no pressure on the front of the cannon bone, with the straps as wide as possible.
FETLOCK BOOTS
These are used to protect the fetlock from blows, and support the joint, tendons and ligaments.
I personally dislike these as in my opinion the strap causes pressure just above the fetlock. I think brushing boots are better as the pressure is more evenly spread and held in the correct place whilst achieving the same goal.
Sadly, a lot of people like these matchy sets with little regard to what effect it has on the horse.This is again my opinion, so have a look at the boot and its effect and make your own decision for your horse.
EXERCISE BANDAGES
I do not like these as it is easy to put uneven pressure on certain areas, and again, your horse cannot tell you.
You must have some kind of pad underneath, for example, fybagee or gamgee.
The exercise bandage must have some stretch to it, and be clean and dry.
HOW TO APPLY
Before applying to a horse, it is a good idea to practice on a friend’s arm or leg so they can give you feedback – make sure you make them run around with it, to check its sustainability and to have a good laugh.
Make sure the horse’s leg is clean and dry.
Wrap the under pad around the cannon bone, firmly covering half way up the knee going down to halfway over the fetlock. Make sure it is completely smooth and it wraps towards the hindquarters. It should not start or finish on the back of the tendons or the front of the cannon bone.
Holding the wrap with one hand, start rolling the bandage, going towards the hindquarters from the middle of the cannon bone.
Do one lap around the leg, then fold the top over the second round and cover the fold on the third, to hold the bandage in place (watch video if unsure).
Wrap the bandage firmly and evenly around the leg, so that it is tight enough to apply pressure but loose enough to easily slide in a finger.
It should cover just below the padding at the top, and just above at the bottom. It should finish in the middle of the leg.
If the bandage has ties, make sure the string is not tight and the bow is on the outside of the leg, then cover the bow by folding the bandage over the top.
Make sure any other ties are not causing pressure and are secure, some people cover with tape to make sure they do not come undone.
Finally make sure your horse’s leg movement is not impaired in any way.
HOW TO REMOVE
Undo the ties or straps.
Quickly pass the bandage from one hand to the other, scrunching up the bandage as you go.
Remove the padding, and gently massage the leg.
To roll the bandage, I place it unraveled over my shoulder, to keep it off the floor.
The ties or fastenings must be on the inside of the roll.
Roll as tightly as you can. The firmer the roll, the easier it is to use.
Tuck the end of the bandage into itself, to hold the bandage together and stop it loosening.
Final Thoughts
As with anything you do with your horse, you must make sure you have not created any pressure or sore points for him.
If you are unsure, you are better to get an experienced person to check it.